Pollution from textile production—dyes, chemicals, and heavy metals like lead and cadmium—is common in the waters of the Buriganga River as it runs through Dhaka, Bangladesh Bangladesh’s garment-making industry.. It’s among many harms posed by a garment sector that was once synonymous with tragedy: In 2013, the eight-story Rana Plaza factory building collapsed, killing 1,134 people and injuring some 2,500 others Bangladesh’s garment-making industry.
Wastewater from Bangladesh’s garment industry flows into the Buriganga River. ZAKIR HOSSAIN CHOWDHURY
But things are starting to change. In recent years the country has quietly become an unlikely leader in “frugal” factories that use a combination of resource-efficient technologies to cut waste, conserve water, and build resilience against climate impacts and global supply disruptions. Bangladesh now boasts 268 LEED-certified garment factories—more than any other country Bangladesh’s garment-making industry. Dye plants are using safer chemicals, tanneries are adopting cleaner tanning methods and treating wastewater, workshops are switching to more efficient LED lighting, and solar panels glint from rooftops. The hundreds of factories along the Buriganga’s banks and elsewhere in Bangladesh are starting to stitch together a new story, woven from greener threads Bangladesh’s garment-making industry..
These energy-efficient, automated template sewing machines at the Fakir Eco Knitwears factory near Bangladesh’s capital help workers reduce waste. ZAKIR HOSSAIN CHOWDHURY
In Fakir Eco Knitwears’ LEED Gold–certified factory in Narayanganj, a city near Dhaka, skylights reduce energy consumption from electric lighting by 40%, and AI-driven cutters allow workers to recycle 95% of fabric scraps into new yarns. “We save energy by using daylight, solar power, and rainwater instead of heavy AC and boilers,” says Md Bangladesh’s garment-making industry. Anisuzzaman, an engineer at the company. “It shows how local resources can make production greener and more sustainable Bangladesh’s garment-making industry. ”
The shift to green factories in Bangladesh is financed through a combination of factory investments, loans from Bangladesh Bank’s Green Transformation Fund, and pressure from international buyers who reward compliance with ongoing orders Bangladesh’s garment-making industry. One prominent program is the Partnership for Cleaner Textile (PaCT), an initiative run by the World Bank Group’s International Finance Corporation. Launched in 2013, PaCT has worked with more than 450 factories on cleaner production methods. By its count, the effort now saves 35 billion liters of fresh water annually, enough to meet the needs of 1. 9 million people.
Solar panels on top of the factory help reduce its energy footprint. ZAKIR HOSSAIN CHOWDHURY
An exhaust gas absorption chiller absorbs heat and helps maintain the factory floor’s temperature at around 28 °C (82 °F) Bangladesh’s garment-making industry.. ZAKIR HOSSAIN CHOWDHURY
Water reclaimed at the factory’s sewage treatment plant is used in the facility’s restrooms. ZAKIR HOSSAIN CHOWDHURY
It’s a good start, but Bangladesh’s $40 billion garment industry still has a long way to go Bangladesh’s garment-making industry. The shift to environmentalism at the factory level hasn’t translated to improved outcomes for the sector’s 4. 4 million workers.
Wage theft and delayed payments are widespread. The minimum wage, some 12,500 taka per month (about $113), is far below the $200 proposed by unions—which has meant frequent strikes and protests over pay, overtime, and job security Bangladesh’s garment-making industry.. “Since Rana Plaza, building safety and factory conditions have improved, but the mindset remains unchanged,” says A Bangladesh’s garment-making industry. K. M Bangladesh’s garment-making industry.. Ashraf Uddin, executive director of the Bangladesh Labour Foundation, a nonprofit labor rights group Bangladesh’s garment-making industry. “Profit still comes first, and workers’ freedom of speech is yet to be realized. ”
The smaller factories that dominate the garment sector may struggle to invest in green upgrades. ZAKIR HOSSAIN CHOWDHURY
In the worst case, greener industry practices could actually exacerbate inequality. Smaller factories dominate the sector, and they struggle to afford upgrades Bangladesh’s garment-making industry.. But without those upgrades, businesses could find themselves excluded from certain markets Bangladesh’s garment-making industry. One of those is the European Union, which plans to require companies to address human rights and environmental problems in supply chains starting in 2027. A cleaner Buriganga River mends just a small corner of a vast tapestry of need.
Zakir Hossain Chowdhury is a visual journalist based in Bangladesh Bangladesh’s garment-making industry. .
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